How to grow hellebores

Hellebores are a favourite among UK gardeners, and with good reason. These hardy perennials more than earn their keep with their rich, intense colour display and ability to bring depth and texture to garden borders when little else is in flower. While they might require a bit of patience to settle into new surroundings, the rewards are well worth the wait. Here’s everything you need to know about growing these splendid plants.

Types of hellebores

Hellebores come in a wide variety of shapes and colours, with around twenty different species to choose from. Here are some of the most popular types:

• Oriental Hybrids (Helleborus orientalis): Also known as the Lenten rose, these hybrids are a familiar favourite. They produce many-flowered stems in shades of cream, pink, ruby and dark plum, with a main flush of flowers from February to April. Hardy and long-lived, they are easy to grow in shady, but not too dry conditions, reaching up to 45cm (1.5ft) tall.
• Stinking Hellebore (Helleborus foetidus): Native to the UK, this hellebore produces spikes of greenish flowers in February on dark green, leafy bushes. Its name comes from the fact it smells when you crush the leaves, with gardeners variously likening the smell to roast beef, wet dog, or coffee! It thrives in deep shade and can grow up to 90cm (3ft) tall.
• Corsican Hellebore (Helleborus argutifolius): This variety is known for its attractive pale apple-green flowers in March and April. It grows quickly forming clumps and can tolerate more sun than other hellebores. Although not usually long-lived, it self-seeds generously.
• Christmas Rose (Helleborus niger): This hellebore is prized for its waxy white saucer-shaped flowers that bloom as early as January or February (earlier if kept under a cloche). It is harder to grow than some other hellebore species, needing a sheltered spot in shade with good, deep soil. It will benefit from cloche or greenhouse protection in harsh winter weather.

Where to plant hellebores

Hellebores thrive in conditions similar to their native woodland habitats, making them perfect for shaded or dappled shade areas. While some varieties can tolerate more sun (H. argutifolius) or deeper shade (H. foetidus), they generally prefer a spot with light shade and well-drained, moisture-retentive soil. They do particularly well in lime, chalk, or well-cultivated clay soils, especially when enriched with organic matter like well-rotted leafmould, humus, or mushroom compost (which benefits from being slightly alkaline).

When to plant hellebores

The best time to plant hellebores is from autumn to spring. Most gardeners wait until H. orientalis is in bloom, as the flowers can vary significantly in colour within a 'selection' or 'series'. When planting, it’s crucial to give hellebores plenty of room for their deep roots to spread out. Ensure the soil level of the pot is flush with the garden soil to avoid any issues with the plant settling too deep causing buds to rot.

Best hellebores to grow in pots

If you’re looking to grow hellebores in pots, choose varieties that need protection from frost and winter wet, such as H. lividus, H. thibetanus, or H. niger (Christmas rose). Whilst you can grow some of the other varieties such as H. orientalis in pots, it's better to do this only for a season, as they will fare much better in the ground. Use a good quality loam-based compost like John Innes No. 2 with added grit for drainage. Ensure your pots are not waterlogged by placing them on pot feet and replenish the mulch annually in spring to maintain soil fertility.

When to feed hellebores

Hellebores in the border benefit from feeding in late August, just before the flower buds begin to form. Mulching with spent mushroom compost is ideal. Be careful not to mulch too close to the crown of the plant to prevent bud rot. Hellebores in pots will benefit from regular feeding with a high-potash fertilizer, such as Chempak No. 4 or tomato feed, to keep them healthy and blooming. 

When to cut back hellebores

Hellebores keep their leathery leaves year-round. However, these can obscure the flowers and potentially carry fungal diseases like hellebore black spot. To reduce the risk of disease and to tidy up the plants, cut back old foliage in the new year, just before the flowers bloom. After the plants have flowered, remove the old flower stalks to encourage fresh growth and prevent inferior seedlings from diluting the impact of the parent plant (unless you intend to propagate from seed - see below).

How to propagate hellebores

Hellebores can be propagated by division or from seed. Division is the easiest method, best done in early autumn, although it can also be done in spring after flowering. When dividing hellebores, carefully dig up the plant with a garden fork, shaking off excess soil to reveal the roots. Separate the hellebore into clumps with a spade or garden knife, ensuring each section has healthy roots and a growing shoot. Replant the divisions with the first roots at the base of the shoots about 2.5 cm below the soil surface. Water the newly divided plants regularly to help them settle in. Hellebores don’t like being disturbed and divided plants may be slow to establish, taking a few years to flower well. Avoid dividing H. argutifolius, H. foetidus, H. lividus, or H. sternii - these are best grown from seed.

If hellebores aren’t deadheaded, they will often self-seed freely, allowing you to dig up seedlings and grow them on in pots or leave them in situ to mature. Alternatively, you can collect seeds from ripe pods in mid to late summer and sow them outdoors. Fresh seeds have a higher germination rate than stored seeds. The latter can be tricky, requiring a period of warmth (15-18°C for six weeks) followed by winter cold (around 5°C for another six weeks). Germination can be unpredictable, sometimes taking up to a year. Keep in mind that the offspring of cultivars and hybrids will often differ from the parent plants both in colour and form.

With their beautiful, early blooms and low-maintenance requirements, hellebores are a wonderful addition to any garden. By following these tips, you’ll be rewarded with a stunning display of colour when most of your other plants are still fast asleep.